Did you know there are a number of toxic chemicals that are used to produce that pretty fabric you plan to use in your next quilt? In this article I am uncovering what toxins are used in the production of fabric and will be showing you how to prewash and colour set your fabrics before you ever cut it.
Discover the Hidden Dangers in your Quilting Fabric
As quilters, we spend countless hours touching, cutting, and sewing beautiful fabrics. But have you ever stopped to think about what exactly goes into turning a cotton boll (the fruit of the cotton plant) into vibrant and beautiful yardage? The journey of quilting cotton is a complex industrial process that, unfortunately, involves a cocktail of toxic chemicals. Let’s take a look at how fabric is manufactured.
The Fabric Life Cycle
Quilting cotton is a natural fiber, but the process of turning raw cotton into usable fabric is very chemical-intensive. There are several stages where these substances are introduced:
Growing and Harvesting
Conventional cotton starts with a heavy reliance on pesticides and insecticides. While some of this may wash away before the fabric reaches you, the environmental impact at the farming stage is large.
Preparation and Pre-Treatment
Before the fiber can be spun, woven, and dyed, it needs to be thoroughly cleaned and prepared. In this stage, the fibers are exposed to:
Scouring: Harsh detergents and solvents are used to remove natural oils, waxes and remaining pesticides.
Bleaching: Chemicals like chlorine are used to achieve a bright white base. If not treated properly prior to disposal, these compounds can create harmful by-products which are toxic to the environment.
Sizing/De-Sizing: To make the warp threads (vertical stationery threads) stronger and easier to weave on high speed looms, they are coated with chemical sizing. The sizing must then be removed with an acid or enzyme wash later in the process.
Dyeing and Printing
This stage has the greatest chemical use of the process and is what gives us our beautiful vibrant fabrics.
Azo Dyes: Synthetic dyes responsible for many of the bright and deep colours we love. While most are safe, some Azo dyes are known to release aromatic amines upon contact with sweat or saliva. Some of these aromatic amines are carcinogenic, and as a result, many regions (e.g. the EU) restrict or ban these dyes.
Heavy Metals: To achieve stability and certain colour shades, some dyes may contain heavy metals like lead, mercury, cadmium, and chromium. These are neurotoxins and are harmful to humans, wild life and the environment.
Finishing
The final stage is where manufacturers add special properties to the fabric. This is where you encounter some really toxic chemicals:
Formaldehyde: This is a known human carcinogen often used to add wrinkle resistance and to fix dyes, thereby reducing color bleeding. Even in small amounts, it can cause skin irritation, respiratory issues, and allergic reactions.
Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS): Frequently referred to as forever chemicals, they are used to make fabrics stain-resistant and water-repellent. They remain in the environment and have been linked to serious health issues including: endocrine disruption and certain cancers. While less common in quilting cotton, they are used for other textiles.
Phthalates: Used as plasticizers in printing inks and coatings, these chemicals are linked to hormone disruption.
Take Action: Quilt Smarter and Safer
As a quilter, you have more power than you might think! By understanding the chemicals used in fabric production, you can make informed choices to protect yourself, your family and the environment.
Always Pre-Wash Your Fabric
Pre-wash all new fabric before you cut it! This crucial step helps wash away residual sizing, surface dyes, and free formaldehyde that may linger on the finished material. Use a mild detergent and a warm wash cycle.
Check for Certifications
Certifications provide third-party verification that the fabric meets specific standards for safety and sustainability. This is the most effective way to source safer fabric.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100: Products labeled with Class II (products with direct skin contact such as fabrics) have been tested and certified to be free from harmful levels of over 100 substances, including heavy metals, formaldehyde, and certain Azo Dyes.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): It certifies the entire supply chain, from the organic growing of the fibers to the environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing process. GOTS prohibits the use of many of the toxic chemicals listed above.
Support Sustainable Brands
Seek out and support fabric manufacturers and retailers that prioritize ethical and sustainable practices.
How to Pre-Wash and Colour Set your Fabrics
The best thing you can do for your fabric is pre-wash it prior to using it. I know how much of a hassle this is because I have been doing it for years. However, as an Asthmatic, I don’t want all those chemicals in my house.
Simply take your newly cut yardage and fat quarters and wash on warm. You can dry them in your dryer on a warm cycle.
Pre Cuts
Unfortunately, precut fabrics cannot be pre-washed. I’m talking pre cuts other than fat quarters such as jelly rolls, charm packs, layer cakes, etc. They will just shred in the washer. I suggest you purchase some sort of plastic tote to dedicate to storing your precut fabrics. I know this means more plastic, but it keeps the fabric safe from off gassing in your home.
Once you complete your quilt, make sure you wash it with a few colour catchers to catch any of the loose colour that you couldn’t remove by pre-washing, or use Synthrapol (see below).
Colour Setting your Fabrics
I suggest using a colour fixative like Retayne on all batik fabrics as well as all red, dark blue and medium – dark purple fabrics. These colours tend to bleed the most. Retayne fixes the colour and you only need to do it once.
Removing Colour
If you did not pre-wash and colours ran in the wash, you can use Synthrapol, which removes loose dye in the wash.
My Final Thoughts
I hope you found value in Discover the Hidden Dangers in your Quilting Fabric. I know learning about the actual manufacturing of fabric can be disconcerting, but there are sustainable brands that we can all get on board with to make a difference.
One Last Thing
Is getting started quilting on your to do list, but you don’t own a sewing machine yet? Let me help you.
In my new Your First Sewing Machine Checklist you will find what you need, what you can skip, what can wait for later and 4 beginner-friendly machine recommendations.
Click here to get yours today.
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